From Cape to Kruger and next Cameroon

I began my journey in South Africa over a month ago in Cape Town. I came for the soccer, but I discovered a beautiful and mystifying land full of paradox and people who were more than happy to show their slice of the world to me.

From Cape Town I headed east to Pretoria to stay at the Kloof B&B run by Ericka Lottering and her husband Frans. The Lottering's are passionate and angelically friendly people, and their B&B became my sanctuary as I headed to various football matches in Durban and Joburg. I actually met Ericka, Frans, and their daughter, Sigi, nearly five years ago when I was in a nearby hospital after my accident. My dad had flown out to see me at the hospital and he'd stayed at the B&B. Ericka and Sigi came to visit me everyday for the month that I was laid up to keep me company and make sure I had clean clothes. They are, without a doubt, truly amazing people who will do anything for someone in need.

While staying in Pretoria, I visited the sights which included the Voortrekker Memorial - a memorial to the Dutch immigrants (Boers) who trekked across South Africa to avoid British rule, the Union Building - where Nelson Mandela ran the country, and Paul Kruger's modest home - the first President of South Africa and the namesake for the famous Kruger National Park. Next, I took a tour of Soweto, a large complex of various townships just outside of Johannesburg. Soweto is where many Blacks were forced to relocate under apartheid. Here I saw the block where both Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu lived, though not at the same time. I also visited the Apartheid Museum, which offers a moving portrayal of a recent and tragic period of South African history.

The next leg of my journey took me to see the wildlife that is so prevalent in this part of the world. First, I headed to Pilansberg Park where I spent two days in a safari tent, and was fortunate to see many animals including giraffes, hippos, elephants, and several types of antelope. Before my trip to Pilansberg I was invited to Barberton and Kruger National Park by a guest of the B&B, Thea, and her family, which I happily excepted. So after returning from Pilansberg to the B&B I was whisked away by intercity van three hours east of Pretoria near the Swaziland border. Once again, I enjoyed the South African hospitality as Thea and her family took me in as their own. I visited Kruger National Park with Thea and her eldest daughter where we were delighted to see rhinos next to the road and a lioness who'd fallen asleep on the road.

My time in South Africa has come to a close and I have truly enjoyed my time. I have learned a great deal about this country, and I am left with more questions than answers concerning the race relations that trouble SA. There is still so much to be done - perspectives must change, segregation must decrease substantially, and wealth must be generated for everyone. My hope is that the World Cup will help this process continue in a positive direction. I would not hesitate to come back to this land of endless beauty to see how it grows and matures.

The final leg of my journey takes me to Cameroon. For those who are unaware, I was involved in an accident nearly five years ago, which was the reason for my hospitalization in Pretoria. I was in the Peace Corps shoveling debris after the market in the town I was living in, Kumba, burned down. While loading remnants into the back of a dumptruck, the tailgate released and I was crushed between it and the back of the truck. I suffered a fractured skull, numerous cranial nerves were damaged, two of my ear bones disintegrated, and blood flow to the left side of my brain ceased. I would have died were it not for a genetic "abnormality" known as the Circle of Willis which allowed for blood from the right side of my brain to flow to the left side. I have mixed feelings when I think of returning to where my life was drastically altered. For me, spiritually, this is a vital step in my overall healing because it completes a cycle. I know that I will never be the same - I am altered physically, mentally, and spiritually by what occurred on November 17, 2005. For all the difficulty, though, I am anxious to return to Cameroon, to see my friends, to visit my town, to make amends with that dumptruck. I am ready. Next, Cameroon...